A mismatched opener is the most common mistake we see corrected after the fact. A 1/3 hp unit from 1998 might have been fine on the original door, but if that door's been replaced since with a heavier insulated steel model, the old opener size is underpowered for it and will shorten its own life fighting the extra weight. The fix isn't a bigger motor bolted to old brackets; it's matching the opener's horsepower and drive type to the actual door hanging on the track today.
We'll also say plainly where we draw the line: if the springs are original and clearly fatigued, we're not installing a new opener onto them. A new opener run against a failing spring system will burn out again within a year or two, and that's a return trip nobody wants, including us.